For summer vacation this year, we
decided on a road trip to North
Carolina. Our destination: a little
town called Duck, on the Outer
Banks of North Carolina.
As a town, there isn't much to say
about Duck. It's really just a series
of small shopping centres strung
along the main highway running
through the Outer Banks. They
offer a mixture of T-shirt shops, real
estate offices and craft shops. We
didn't spend much time there.
The beach in Duck, though, is
impressive. It's huge, sandy, and
hot. We had fun body-surfing and
swimming - the water was
surprisingly warm. Andrew made
good use of his skim board.
We stayed a few miles north of
Duck at the Sanderling Resort. It's
a nice spot, with big rooms, lots of
beach and a couple of onsite
restaurants. The resort also has a
spa, tennis courts, exercise
facilities, an indoor and an outdoor
pool: but we came for the beach
and didn't use any of that stuff.
Each evening after dinner, we
would return to the beach and lie on
beach chairs looking for shooting
stars. Even though the ambient
light on the Outer Banks is not a
problem (good view of the Milky
Way) and even though we were
there about the same time as the
Perseids meteor shower, we didn't
have much luck in the sky.
But on the shore it was a different
story, after dark the place is lousy
with crabs. Colin collected a few of
these "ghost" crabs each night.
One morning I took my camera to
the beach for some sunrise shots.
It's a very pleasant way to start the
day, and a surprising number of
other folks were on the beach, or
on their decks, watching.
One evening, Andrew, Colin and I
took a kayak tour of the Pine Island
Audabon Sanctuary, in the salt
marshes on the Currituck Sound
side of the peninsula. There were
surprisingly few birds at this time of
year, but we saw an Osprey, and
while passing through a narrow
channel in the marsh grass, came
dangerously close to a Water
Moccasin snake. Due to the risk of
dunking - I didn't take my camera,
so no snaps of this....you'll have to
take my word.
One thing we found weird about
Duck... the restaurants close early.
On the first night, we ate at the Red
Sky Cafe. We arrived at about 8:30
pm, and shortly after the waiter had
taken our order, he turned off the
"OPEN" light in the window. The
meal wasn't bad, and we even had
a bottle of Liberty School Cabernet
Sauvignon (which we discovered on
another vacation), but we felt like
we were being rushed out so that
the place could be closed.
A couple of nights later we tried the
Duck Deli, for some barbecue
(according to an article on Duck in
the NY Times, barbecue is a noun,
not a verb, in N.C.). We arrived at
8:50, only to be told that they were
only doing take-out. We ordered a
barbecue sampler platter and took
it back to the hotel. It turned out to
be a pleasant dinner, sitting on the
large deck and listening to the
sound of the surf coming over the
dunes. The barbecue though was
a disappointment. The ribs and
pulled pork were both dry and
tough. And they were served with
something called "hush puppies",
which as far as we could tell are
deep fried mashed potatoes. We
had much better at Pancho Villa's, a
Mexican food chain, when we
stopped over in Fredericksburg on
the drive down.
The same NY Times piece
recommends the sticky cinnamon
buns at Tullio's Pastry, but we
found them to be ordinary.
And while I'm on the topic of
restaurants in Duck, I should
mention the Roadside Raw Bar and
Grill. We had a good dinner here,
but the place is not without it's
quirks. First, they won't deviate
from the dishes on the menu - not
even to combine side dishes from
one item with the entre from
another. And second, we couldn't
get a glass of milk. "No milk in the
house" our waitress told us, or for
our coffee (same spiel..."No milk in
the house").
We continued on to visit Colonial
Williamsburg in Virginia